Biking in the Western Alps 2008-09
This year again - for a final longer motorbike trip before winter starts -
I returned to the Alps, with final stop in Torino.
This time I travelled one way by myself and just returned via car train.
By this setup I also sampled the Vosges and Switzerland, where I made an effort
to avoid any highways (saving toll on the way, ain't I clever?).
Next year I plan to go again both ways by car train, because Switzerland (compared
to alpine pass feeling) is not worth the side trip, which costs more time and
the same amount of money compared to the car train.
And the Vosges mountains are a fine weekend trip from my place anyway, just need to do it!
This time I depended on tourist information offices for accomodation.
I wanted to be more flexible - and it's too much hassle trying to fix places to stay
in remote locations over the internet.
This was a wise choice, because I had to change plans on a daily basis, trying to avoid the rain.
I was quite successfull - until the last day, when I was scheduled for Torino and could
not avoid the hailstorm on the way.
Special this year: I brought my brand-new
Acer Aspire One with me,
so I was depending
on wireless Internet access. Unfortunately I just spend most of the time tweaking
the Linpus Linux (and I anyway forgot all my passwords back home) - but I am confident
I can use it next time :-)
This years costs come down to 180€ car train and 560 € travel costs.
The Route
Day 1: Pfälzer Wald and Vosges Mountains
After some short arrival trip right into the slopes.
| Distance |
170 km |
| Route |
Neustadt an der Weinstrasse (D) - Pfalz - Vosges - Saverne Google Maps |
| Pictures |
Pfalz and Vosges |
| Accomodation |
Hotel Arial in Steinbourg - expensive (provided by tourist information) |
| Internet |
was broken |
| Highlights |
nothing particular |
Day 2: Crossing over non-toll roads into Swizerland
| Distance |
240 km (goal was Bern, but was too far) |
| Route |
From Steinbourg - Stop in Nidau (goal was Bern, but was too far) Google Maps |
| Pictures |
Switzerland |
| Accomodation |
Youth Hostel Lago Lodge in Nidau |
| Nice setting near the lake and city center |
| Very good price for shared room (26 CHF, next hotel was 75 CHF) |
| Unlike german youth hostels everybody can stay here, without any membership |
| High recommondation |
| Internet |
free WLAN |
| Highlights |
nothing particular |
Day 3: Leaving Swizerland behind, avoiding rain in Aoste valley
Planned was going to Charmoix Mont Blanc, but weather report scared me off
| Distance |
220 km |
| Route |
Nidau - Montreux - Martigny - Col du Grand St. Bernard - Aoste Google Maps |
| Pictures |
To Aoste |
| Accomodation |
expensive (by tourist information) in Aoste |
| Internet |
WLAN 3€/1h |
| Highlights |
nothing particular |
| Lowlight |
Col du Grand St. Bernard is said to be the best pass in the Alps - but the whole italian side was under construction |
| Only recommend it when you're into kitch bernadine dogs in all variations |
Day 4: Inner Alp Riding
The best riding day of the whole trip, even with some rain splashing in the evening.
| Distance |
220 km |
| Route |
Aoste - Col du Piccolo St. Bernard - Bourg St. Maurice - Val d'Isere - Aussois - Modane Google Maps |
| Pictures |
Val de Isere |
| Accomodation |
Hotel in Modane (lost the name), Cheap but nice |
| Internet |
Newly installed WLAN in hotel was not working yet, but found free WLAN in Pizza Place 5min by walk |
| Highlights |
Col du Piccolo St. Bernard, quiet minor road over Aussois parallel to B6 |
Day 5: More passes
I wanted to tackle the whole Col du Galibier, but I turned back half-ways because of
heavy clouds on the other side of the pass.
| Distance |
160+80=240 km |
| Route |
Modane - Col du mont cenis - Claviere - Briancon - Col du Llautaret - Col du Galibier - Valoire - le Monetier les Bains Google Maps |
| Sidetrip |
After taking accomodation just some free driving Google Maps |
| Pictures |
Passes en masse |
| Accomodation |
Gite le FlouRou in Le Monetier les Bains, Shared accomodation, but nobody else in room :-) |
| Place is said to have hot natural spring, unfortunately didn't manged to dip into |
| Internet |
No WLAN, pub which had free WLAN was closed because off-season |
| Highlights |
Perfect curve combinations from Le Monetier les Bains until Col du Lautaret |
Day 6: Changing to Torino
The last day in the Alps, the evening I was scheduled to arrive in Torino.
Unfortunately, upon entering Italy I was welcomed by heavy rain and a
hail storm.
| Distance |
200 km |
| Route |
Le Monetier les Bains - Col d'Izoard - Col Agnel - country roads to Torino Google Maps |
| Pictures |
To Torino |
| Accomodation |
Friend's place in Torino (thanks a lot!!!) |
| Internet |
No time to check for WLAN :-) |
| Highlights |
Good but busy track: Col d'Izoard |
| Good and quiet track: Col Agnel |
Day 7: Relaxing in Torino
Relax, enjoy good food and ice cream, strolling in Torino
| Distance |
not applicable |
| Route |
not applicable |
| Pictures |
In Torino, and Way to Alessandria |
| Accomodation |
Guest House Casa della Mibilita giovaile e dell interculture, corso venezia 11 |
| 2 km from city center |
| Good price, private and shared rooms available |
| Internet |
WLAN 2€/1h |
Day 8: Returning via Alessandria
Short trip through the countryside to the car train terminal in Alessandria.
Luckily the weather cleared up in the noon, so I had a nice farewell from Italy.
| Distance |
100 km |
| Route |
Torino - Alessandria Google Maps |
| Pictures |
In Torino, and Way to Alessandria |
| Accomodation |
Car Train with 4 other people |
| Internet |
Acer's Live Update broke Network connection applet, so could not check coverage ;-( |
Summary
Besides the sub-optimal weather it was a real nice trip again this year. Looking
forward for next year, whereever and whenever I will go then.
Again, France turned out to be
the travelling country: No unreasonable speed limits
or overtaking-limitations, no need to register like a criminal in every place to stay,
great roads and friendly people.
In Italy, you now need to provide a passport copy when you want to have internet access
anywhere :-(
Of course, this is for preventing terrorist attacks -
the number one excuse to bully everyone with
new laws and regulations. There I can only reply: "Screw you guys, I am going
to France instead" ;->>
Additional Information
Planning Literature
- Markus Golletz: Westalpen mit dem Motorrad, Bruckmann-Verlag, ISBN-10: 3765444316, German
The author is a big enduro fan, thus please take a little bit of caution with the tracks in here.
- Rudolf Geser: Die schönsten Alpenpässe. 50 Motorradtouren, J. Berg Verlag, ISBN 3-7658-4169-2, German
Good overview about alpine passings
- Sylva Harasim, , Martin Schempp: Die 100 schönsten Pässe der Alpen: Österreich Italien Schweiz Frankreich, Nikol Verlag, ISBN-10: 3937872701, German
More passes, even small and unknown ones
- Frankreich: Marco Polo Regionalkarte Frankreich. Provence, Cote d'Azur, Rhones-Alpes 1 : 300 000: Tl 8 (Landkarte), Mairdumont-Verlag, ISBN-10 3829737580
Very handy to add the suggested tours from the previous books and then build your custom route
- And last but definitely not least, not to forgot my TomTom Rider (version 1)
I won't had as much fun without a navigation system. Just plan/program your route the evening before - and then just follow it!
Improvements
- (Similar to last year) add an relaxing day inbetween.
For me it was a little inconvenient to keep up running all days from 9am to 5pm. And it really was sad that I did not managed any sightseeing in this great landscape. Or any hiking.
Links
Country Emergency Numbers
Switzerland
- 117: Police
- 118: Fire Brigade
- 144: Medical Rescue
- 1414: Swiss Rescue Flights
Italy
- 113: Police
- 115: Fire Brigade
- 117: Guardia di Financia
- 118: Rescue Service
- 77171: Mountain rescue
France
- 15: Rescue Service
- 17: Police
- 18: Fire Brigade